Apparently, my timing was off. Boogie board strapped to my wrist, knees bent, waiting for the perfect wave. I glanced at Bri, “I always get these wrong.” He laughed and we both watched as the wall of water I had been looking for began to form. It was huge, and I was ready. I jumped on the board just as the wave crested. It was a whole lot bigger than me, and as I began to move forward with the water, my legs were jerked out from underneath me–backward up over my head in an awkward flip. I was immersed in the dizziness of churning water, disoriented, sand stinging my nose and eyes, every sense heightened. I came up spluttering and coughing to see Bri doubled in laughter. Through it all I felt no fear, only joy. As odd as it might seem, I had never felt more ALIVE. And it felt good!
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